Changes in Tokyo. 2017 Edition

More movements in the retailer scene in Tokyo re fountain pens. These changes are now related to two well known shops—Itoya and Bung-Box.

Itoya’s headquarters in Ginza. Somehow, the dream of fountain pen loves is over at Ginza’s Itoya. Previous changes in the main building truly affected the whole concept of the shop, but the fountain pen section had been kept in a wonderful bubble. Most fountain pens were confined to the K.Itoya building in the back alley from the main building on Chuo Dori. And those two floors dedicated to pens and inks were indeed a small paradise for any stylophile. But this arrangement might not have been that profitable…

In the last reform during Fall of 2016, the fountain pen section of Itoya was moved to the main building in the third floor. As a result, pens have lost space and tranquility.

The essential problem of this new arrangement is that the whole main building became a long corridor after the two year refurbishment that ended in 2015. And a corridor is always a passing place.

The consequence of these changes in Itoya is that right now there are more appealing places to have a look at medium and high end pens.

Bung-Box. This is, by now, a well-known shop despite being located in the remote –for a Tokyoite— city of Hamamatsu, in the province of Shizuoka. The big success of the Bung-Box line of inks created some stress on the production of those inks that was solved with a dramatic increase of their price.

On December 17th of 2016, the Hamamatsu shop opened a branch in Tokyo. This is a very small place dedicated to pens and inks, with a special attention to the original products –by Sailor and by Pilot— Bung-Box sells so successfully.

The opening hours and days of this shop in Tokyo seem a bit erratic, and checking its website is strongly recommended before attempting a visit.

Bung-Box original inks, by Sailor. JPY 3240 per inkwell (50 ml).

Its address is
4-8-6 Jingumae
Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0001
Phone: 03-6434-5150

This information has been included on the page on fountain pen shops in Tokyo.

Oaso “Safari” – Pilot Iroshizuku Yama-budo

Bruno Taut
Shinjuku, February 24th 2017
etiquetas: Tokyo, mercado, papelería, Itoya, BunguBox

Last Day

Thursday 31st (yesterday at the time of publishing this text) was the last day of Pen Station, the pen museum and café of Pilot in Tokyo. I went out of my way to have one last look and a last cub of coffee. A Pilot Myu-701 did the writing.

Yes, this place will be missed.

Pilot Myu-701 – Pilot Black

Bruno Taut
Chuo, March 31st, 2016
etiquetas: Tokyo, Pilot

The Pen Station

Urban development, real needs for more space, Olympic Games in 2020, real estate speculation… Whatever the reason, Pilot Corporation will close down its pen museum --Pen Station-- in Chuo Ward in Tokyo by the end of this month of March.

That is only part of a major operation. The current building of the Pilot Corporation headquarters will be demolished to erect a new one. These works will take over three years.

Pilot currently has no plan to reopen the pen museum. The pens and other materials on display at it will be taken to a warehouse at the Hiratsuka site where Pilot has its production plant. Thus, Tokyo is about to lose the only pen museum in town. This primary source of information for anyone interested on pens in Japan and on Pilot in particular will be lost. Of course, the information will still exist, but hidden somewhere in Kanagawa province, less accessible, harder to find…

Not many museums like this one exist anywhere in the world, and Japan seems very apt to host one—a active and thriving pen industry, a taste for craftsmanship, a very Japanese way to decorate pens… All that could be seen and enjoyed at the Pen Station.

Over a year ago, January 2015, Pilot opened a small museum on maki-e pens (plus some additional good produced by Pilot maki-e craftsmen) on the grounds of the Hiratsuka plant. It is an interesting initiative, but very small and limited in scope. And far away from Tokyo. However, it is bound to being the only pen museum in Tokyo area.

The old gunpowder manufacturing building is the center of maki-e creation at the Hiratsuka plant. It is also the site of the Pilot Maki-e Museum.

Sure enough, Pen Station, museum & café, will be sadly missed.

The Pen Station is located on Kyobashi 2-6-21, Chuo, Tokyo 104-8304. Phone: 03-3538 3700. Opens Monday to Friday, from 9:30 to 17:00; and Saturdays from 11:00 to 17:00. Sundays closed.


Note added on March 29th 2016:
George Kovalenko is the author of the blog Fountain Pen History, which is an invaluable resource for anyone interested on the history of North American pens. He pointed out that you can virtually visit Pen Station through Google Maps. This is the link: https://www.google.ca/maps/@35.6768921,139.7703936,3a,75y,125.83h,89.73t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sOAKJ4EblmqkAAAQzVOQZ5A!2e0!3e2!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en . Thanks, George!

Pilot Murex – Pilot Blue-black

Bruno Taut
Nakano, March 14th, 2016
etiquetas: Japón, Tokyo, Pilot

The New Itoya

Over two years ago, Itoya closed the flagship builing in Ginza for renovation. The main operation was transferred to a nearby building in the meantime. Things were back to normal this past Summer –the renewed headquarters on Chuo Dori, the main street in Ginza, open with the corresponding fanfare.

The new façade of the Itoya flagship store in Ginza.

Back to normal, I said. Really?

Maybe Itoya is back to normal, but not to the way Itoya operated before the renovation. At that time, this shop was a reference in Tokyo for all things stationery. Its stock, and the number of displayed items were impressive. Itoya was the place to go in search for very specific stationery.

Some inexpensive fountain pens are also displayed in the main building. Lamy, Kaweco, the Itoya's series Color Chart... are some of them.

But that does not seem to be the case now.

Now, Itoya is something else. Now, in Itoya you can find many things unrelated to stationery. Now you can find coffee machines, for instance. Now, Itoya is more of a “lifestyle” shop where to look for fashionable and trendy goods. In fact, Itoya now resembles to a Japanese chain of “lifestyle” shops: Loft.

One section Itoya has apparently invested on is the area of customized products –personalized notebooks and printed matters. A lot more space is dedicated to them after the renovation at the expense of many other goods previously present—from notebooks to pens to any accessory--, whose space has been drastically reduced.

Samples of papers for custom prints. At least, beautiful.

Paper samples for custom notebooks.

The fountain pen section, itself a reference in Tokyo and in Japan, has been preserved in the K.Itoya building in the back alley from the headquarters. Stylophiles still have this particular mecca in Tokyo where to go to see what is going in the fountain pen market nowadays.

The café on the top floor. The name says it all. But at least it has some stylographic flavor.

Recently published book. The title, Ginza Itoya. Stationery. And then, "better life". Clear enough?

I wonder what the rationale lies behind this change in the orientation of Itoya, and I cannot see whether this makes economic sense. I do know, however, that right now there are better shops in Tokyo where to find very specific products, no matter Itoya –and many others, for that matter—could take your order.

Itoya’s headquarters now might be a lot more beautiful, but that is about it. Itoya has lost a lot of the previous appeal as stationery shop.

Pilot Penmanship – Montblanc White Forest

Bruno Taut
Shinjuku, October 29th, 2015
etiquetas: mercado, Tokyo, papelería, Itoya

In Kugahara

Another pen shop in Tokyo—Asahiya Kami Bungu, at the area called Kugahara in the district of Ota. This means that this shop is really off the beaten tracks of any pen route in Tokyo. As a result, the shop relies strongly on online channels to carry their business.

But the brick and mortar shop is still there, as has been the case since 1931. It is fairly spacious and cozy, and only offers a small selection of pens —all Pilot and Namiki—, a couple of ink brands —Pilot and J. Herbin—, and a nice selection of papers and notebooks.

The brick and mortar shop.

This limited offer of pens would only make this shop as many others, but Asahiya Kami does offer a unique pen —a red-urushi Pilot Custom 845— and a broader selection of nib points on models Custom 845 and plunger-filler Custom 823. The later is also available in the apparently discontinued white transparent version.

The red urushi (vermillion) Pilot Custom 845 with a regular BB nib. This pen in this color is exclusive to Asahiya Kami Bungu.

Other pen shops in Japan have offered similar options in the past. Maruzen had limited edition Custom 845s in green and in blue urushi, and some years ago offered the option of falcon and waverly nibs at least on the Custom 823. These options, however, are no longer available, and make Asahiya Kami all the more appealing. The drawback of all these limited releases is having to pay the full catalog (MSRP) price (JPY 50000 for the Custom 845 and JPY 30000 for the Custom 823) while some other shops in town offer them at discount prices, although with no fancy options.

Two Custom 823. The fully transparent unit sports a waverly nib. This option is not offered in the Pilot catalog, but is sold at Asahiya Kami stationery.

Exclusivity, after all, has a price.

Asahiya Kami Bungu will be included in the list of pen shops in Tokyo in this blog.

Platinum 3776 (1984) – Parker Quink Blue

Bruno Taut
Nakano, April 17th, 2015
etiquetas: Tokyo, mercado, Pilot

Changes and Updates in Tokyo

It is an impossible task to keep perfectly updated any list of places where to buy fountain pens in a city –or group of cities—the size of Tokyo metropolitan area. Now and then you notice some changes and you write about them… That I am doing now, together with some minor reflection.

-- Lemonsha’s branch in Shinjuku no longer carries fountain pens. That part of the business is now concentrated in the Ginza shop.

-- Map Camera-Kingdom Note, therefore, is the only available shop for second hand pens in Shinjuku. However, the selection of those –as of February 2015— is becoming alarmingly small, which combined with the usually high prices of this shop make this pen scenario not very appealing. Map Camera/Kingdom Note keeps having a very good inventory of inks (at MSRP prices).

And it is my impression that the second hand market is moving away from regular shops. The amount of pen on display on them seems to be shrinking. The trade might be moving to some other channels, probably eliminating the middle man.

-- Mori-ichi in Ginza-Kyobashi has been refurbished and no longer sells with discounted prices and its appeal is now very low. This shop stocks mostly Pilot pens.

-- Isetan department store in Shinjuku has enlarged its space for fountain pens. As in any other department store in town, all pens are marked at MSRP, and no bargains can be really found in them. This section has a small selection of maki-e decorated pens.

All in all, I want to see an increase on the importance of the fountain pen market—on this last reform of Isetan in Shinjuku, fountain pens have gained some importance.

Isetan Shinjuku
Shinjuku 3-14-1
Shinjuku
Tokyo 160-0022
Tel: 03 3352 1111
Hours: 10:30-20:00

-- Angers Bureau seemed to be a stationer and gift shop with a few fountain pens here and there, but nothing very interesting. However, now it is possible to see some vintage pens on display. Given their prices, they seem to be more of a decoration than an actual new product in their line of business. Some pen rookie might fall for them, though. Anyway, all this might be the result of a renewed interest in fountain pens.

Angers Bureau has three shops in Tokyo:

ANGERS Ravissant Shinjuku (Marui building)
Shinjuku 3-30-13, Marui Honkan  8F
Shinjyuku
Tokyo 160-022
Tel 03 3352 1678
Hours: 11:00-21:00

ANGERS Bureau ecute (Ueno JR Station)
Ueno 7-1-1, ecute 3F
Taito
Tokyo 110-0005
Tel: 03 5826 5681
Hours: 18:00-22:00

ANGERS Bureau Marunouchi (KITTE building)
Marunouchi, 2-7-2, KITTE 4F
Chiyoda
Tokyo 100-0005
Tel: 03 3217 2006
Hours: 11:00-21:00

Pilot Custom 912, music nib – Sailor Yama-dori

Bruno Taut
Shinjuku, February 13th, 2015
etiquetas: Tokyo, mercado

Pen People

A pen person, Leigh Reyes rightly said, knows better than drinking anything looking like ice tea at a pen meeting. And would use almost anything as a pen holder. A pen person, as well, never misses a street with such a suggestive name as Namiki.

In Chuo-ku, Tokyo.

And wonders what Vanishing Point might mean as a bar, members only, in the sleazy streets of Roppongi (Minato-ku, Tokyo).

In Minato-ku, Tokyo.

Yeah, we are a crazy bunch.

Super T Gester 40 – Sailor Yama-dori

Bruno Taut
Nakano, August 16th 2014
etiquetas: estilofilia, Tokyo

Pens at an Exhibition

I have already mentioned the news, already old by now, of the release of the Pilot Elite 95s, a pocket pen, to celebrate the 95th anniversary of the company. And I also published my reflections on these policies to increase sales: against the Elite 95s, the original Elite from the 1970s…

Of course, Pilot might not be happy with that idea, but this company seems indeed aware of the interest –and of the market—of second hand and vintage pens. Its museum, the Pen Station, is a clear example. And now, during these days, and up to May 31st (2014), there is an exhibition on the Pilot Elite model at the Pen Station.

Assorted Elite pens including the modern reissue from 2013.

Information adds value, and this exhibition might do that not only to those pens from the 1960s and 1970s, but also to the current reissue. And this might be the main argument behind this nice operation of public relations.

Exotic nibs in the Elite gamut of pens (ca. 1970). The exhibition includes some memorabilia.

Sometimes modern marketing has some interesting side effects.

Pilot Jumbo pen (size 50) – Pilot Blue

Bruno Taut
Nakano, April 14th, 2014
etiquetas: Pilot, Tokyo

Tokyo Olympics

The XVIII Olympic Games in Tokyo in 1964 are usually associated, pen wise, to the release of the first Capless model (C-600MW) by Pilot. In fact, there are some ads associating the pen to the sport event. However, I know of no Capless pen with any obvious reference to the Games, but there are some other pens that did celebrate the event.

The Tokyo Olympics poster made by Pilot to announce the first Capless.

The first Pilot Capless, C-600MW, from 1963.

On the picture we can see an E model, predecessor of the first Elite pens and evolution of the earler Super line of pens from the 1950s. In fact, many E Pilot still carried the inscription “PILOT / SUPER 200” on their barrels. But the looks of these pens departed clearly from the old Super models by using of straighter lines –both on the pen ends and on the clip— on the overall design. Two different filling systems were implemented on these pens—the hose system (often known as quarter switch) and ink cartridges, albeit with the caveat of two different types of these. Both the double spare type, long gone, and the single spare cartridge still on production were available on the E model.

This Pilot E does not show the E indication, though. Instead, it sports a sign saying “TOKYO 1964” together with the Japanese flag in between. The filling mechanism is the hose system, and the nail-shaped nib is made of 14 K gold with a manifold point.

These are the dimensions of the pen:
Length closed: 141 mm
Length open: 121 mm
Length posted: 144 mm
Diameter: 12 mm
Weight: 14.5 g (dry)
Ink deposit: 1.0 ml

This particular unit was made at the Hiratsuka plant on September of 1964. The Tokyo Olympics were celebrated between the 10th and the 24th of October.

Pilot Prera – Platinum Black

Bruno Taut
Yokohama, September 10th, 2013
etiquetas: Pilot, Tokyo

PCJ-Wagner Pen Show 2013

The yearly Spring trading event organized by the Pen Collectors of Japan and the Wagner group is coming. It will be held on the weekend of April 20th and 21st at the KFH Hall (KFC Rooms, 11th floor, room 115). The opening times will be from 10:00 to 17:00 on Saturday (entry fee JPY 2000) and from 9:30 to 16:30 on Sunday (entry fee JPY 1000).

View Larger Map

The table fee for traders is JPY 10000 and there seems to be no problem with the available space, just like on year 2012 show. So, to participate as trader you only need to show up on Saturday at 8:50 at the venue.

Pen trading in Japan keeps being a domestic issue, but that might change soon. This coming September, the first international pen show in Japan will take place in Sapporo, in the northernmost island of Hokkaido.

More information (in Japanese): http://blog.livedoor.jp/aurora_88/archives/51937289.html

Platinum Belage – Wagner 2008 ink

Bruno Taut
Yokohama, April 12th, 2013
etiquetas: Tokyo, Japón, evento

More Shops in Tokyo Area

I have just updated the list of shops –and the map with their locations— where to find fountain pens in Tokyo area. There are four new shops and one that went out of business.

That was the case of Asahi Shokai in Ameyoko market. Therefore, there are only fou shops in this street market offering fountain pens.

However, not far from Ameyoko, I have included Takeya General Discount Store. This is a big complex where you could find almost anything, and it also has a small stationery department. The selection of pens and inks is not big, although includes products by, at least, Lamy, Montblanc, Parker, Pelikan, Pilot, Platinum, Sailor. The prices are 30% and more below the MSRP.

8. Takeya (http://www.takeya.co.jp/english/index.html)
4-33-2 Taito
Taito, Tokyo
Phone: 03-3835-7777
Opening hours: Mo-Su: 10:00-20:30
Location map.


On the other side of the Yamanote line, we can find Tsutaya at Daikanyama T-Site. On one hand, Tsutaya is a big chain shop of bookstores, stationeries, and, more importantly, video and music rental. On the other, Daikanyama T-Site is a very pleasant shopping complex, designed by Klein Dytham Arquitecture, in the ward of Shibuya, just one station away from its well-known crossing, along the Tokyu-Toyoko line.

The Tsutaya branch at Daikanyama T-Site has a very beautiful section of upscale writing tools. Prices, though, are MSRP. Might this not be a place to buy, but it is indeed a place to visit and enjoy. The coffee is, unfortunately, subpar.

20. Tsutaya at Daikanyama T-Site (http://tsite.jp/daikanyama/store-service/tsutaya.html)
17-5 Sagurakucho
Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0033
Phone: 03-3770-2525
Opening hours: Mo-Su: 7:00-2:00 (yes, from 7 AM to 2 AM).
Location map.


About 25 kilometers to the West of Shinjuku we find the city of Tama, still in the province of Tokyo. By the station of Seisekisakuragaoka, Keio line, we have a big branch of the general store Keio-Atman. It belongs, not surprisingly, to the big Keio group, involved in transport, retail, real estate and other industries. At some of its shopping centers, the stationery section is good, and in a number of cases, they are Sailor Friendly Shops. This means that besides the regular pens included in the Sailor catalog, there are many other variations. Keio-Atman at Seisekisakuragaoka is one of those shops.

21. Keio-Atman at Seisekisakuragaoka (http://www.keio-atman.co.jp/seiseki/index.html)
1-11-1 Sekido (building A, 4F)
Tama, Tokyo 106-0011
Phone: 042-337-2555
Opening hours: Mo-Su: 10:00-20:00
Location map.


Along Odakyu line, already in Kawasaki, we reach to the station of Shin-Yurigaoka. B-Stock/Nakajima is a small chain of stationery shops located mostly on the West side of Tokyo and in the province of Kanagawa. Some of their branches are Sailor Friendly Shops, and such is the case of the B-Stock branch close to Shin-Yurigaoka station.

22. B-Stock at Shin-Yurigaoka (http://www.stationers.co.jp/shinyuri/index.htm)
4-1-1 Kamiasao (MyLord Building, 3F)
Asao, Kawasaki 215-0021
Phone: 044-959-5061
Opening hours: Mo-Su: 10:00-21-00
Location map.

Pilot Murex – Pilot Blue

Bruno Taut
Yokohama, February 23rd, 2013
labels: Tokyo, mercado, Sailor

Itoya 2012

Itoya is one of the big stationery shops in Tokyo. Its two buildings in Ginza are a Mecca for any lover of stationery goods, including fountain pens, visiting this city.

Itoya's building in 1909

Itoya has recently –opening this past October 3rd—reorganized its sections. Fountain pens are now located on the backstreet building, named K. Itoya 1904 after the foundation of the company in 1904 by Katsutaro Ito, and occupies the first two floors. On the ground floor we see the Montblanc counter, always separated from the rest of pens by imposition of the company, and most pens in price ranges medium and low. The second floor is dedicated to maki-e and urushi fountain pens and to the technical service.

The K.Itoya 1904 building is clearly marked as the fountain pen building, although only two of the seven floors are in fact devoted to these tools.

View of the second floor, dedicated mostly to fountain pens decorated in maki-e and urushi.

This investment in the new organization and this larger space dedicated to sophisticated pens can only mean that the profits derived from upscale writing tools in increasing in the total balance of the company. And foreign visitors might have played an important role in this as there is now a native English-speaker salesman.

Pilot E, manifold nib – Pilot blue-black

Bruno Taut
Shinjuku, October 12th, 2012
Etiquetas: Tokyo, mercado, Japón, papelería, Itoya

PCJ-Wagner Pen Show 2012

Spring is here, despite the weather conditions, and Spring is the season for the pen show organized by the Pen Collectors of Japan (PCJ) and the Wagner group. It will take place on the weekend of April 21st and 22nd at the KFC Hall (KFC Rooms, 11th floor, room 115) in Ryogoku, Tokyo. (Please, check those links for access maps).


The entry fees are JPY 2000 for Saturday (open from 10:00 to 17:00) and JPY 1000 for Sunday (from 9:30 to 16:30). The table fee for traders is JPY 10000 for the whole weekend (more information, on pelikan@hotmail.co.jp). Apparently, there are no limitations of space and there is no need to book in advance—to trade, just show up at 9:00 on Saturday and pay the fee. The tables and the location in the room are decided on a first come, first serve basis. And this year there seems to be no special requisites to participate as a trader. Maybe we would see some coming from overseas to make this show international. Despite the interest of Japanese stylophiles for Western pens, mostly German, trading in Japan seems to be a very domestic business…

Related information: An old chronicle on PCJ-Wagner Pen Show 2010
................................. Information in English through the Fountain Pen Network,

(Platinum pocket pen in striped steel – Platinum Brown, cartridge)

Bruno Taut
April 14th, 2012
[labels: evento, mercado, Japón, Tokyo]